The three winners of the 2015 Gaïa Prize

With the extraordinary dexterity of her fingers, she creates marvels of the watchmaking art; he is a specialist in marine chronometers; complications have no secrets for him… those are the profiles of the three 2015 Gaïa Prize winners.

On the 17th September, the Musée international d’horlogerie (MIH) of La Chaux-de-Fonds held the twenty-first edition of the Gaïa Prize. Honorary distinction bestowed annually, the Gaïa Prize is awarded to individuals who have participated in developing and reinforcing knowledge of watchmaking through their work and achievements in three categories: craftsmanship and creation in watchmaking, history and research in watchmaking and timekeeping and entrepreneurship. The jury awards one prize in each of the three categories but reserves the right not to award a prize in one or more of the categories.

This 2015 edition was enhanced by the presence of Isabelle Chassot, Director of the Federal Office of Culture, who stressed the important role of the watchmaking industry in the economic fabric of Switzerland. She also reminded everyone of the fact that watchmaking features on the UNESCO list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Régis Huguenin-Dumittan, Curator of the MIH, went on to present the trophies to the winners and called attention to the exceptional and welcome presence this year of a female nominee, the 5th woman to have won a place on the long list of prizes.

Craftsmanship and creation
In awarding the 2015 Gaïa Prize to Anita Porchet, the jury wanted to distinguish the fundamental role, perseverance and independence which she has shown in the redynamisation of a disappearing discipline: enamelling.

Born on 15 January 1961 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Anita Porchet discovered a passion for the arts at the age of twelve. Working on various enamelling projects for watchmaking companies since the eighties’, Anita Porchet has never compromised her independent status.

After obtaining the Swiss Matura qualification, Anita Porchet undertook a preparatory year’s study at the Ecole d’arts appliqués (School of Applied Arts) in La Chaux-de-Fonds, before beginning her studies at the Ecole d’arts de Lausanne (School of Fine Arts) in 1980. After working on various enamelling projects for watchmaking companies, she obtained her specialist engraving and enamelling certificate in 1984, at the tender age of 23. The experience she gained through her private tuition with the enameller Elizabeth Juillerat in Geneva played an instrumental part in her being awarded the Patek Philippe prize that same year.

From 1985 to 1992, she returned to the School of Applied Arts in La Chaux-de-Fonds to teach art, crafts and enamelling. Alongside her teaching work, Anita Porchet undertook enamelling projects for private clients and exhibited her work with the
enamellers’ group.

After completing a large number of jobs, she decided to set up in Lausanne where she based her studio. Her artistic talents went from strength to strength: she had the opportunity to exhibit several times, notably in Paris, in 1994, with a work completed in collaboration with painter F. Froehlich, in Morez (France) showcasing modern enamelled jewellery, along with a solo exhibition at the Geneva Museum of Watchmaking the following year.

Since 1995, she has been working on enamelling projects for companies with a strong reputation in the watchmaking arts (Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget) and industry expertise (Hermès, Chanel). Her involvement in the watchmaking industry has earned her a definite renown, as she has established a reputation as one of the leading specialists in her field. Although she is highly sought-after in the industry, Anita Porchet has never compromised her independent status.

This career choice has taken her on a series of interesting trips and exhibitions. On her travels, she has had the opportunity to lead enamelling demonstrations in Japan, Florence, New York, Paris, and Shanghai. She has showcased her artistic talents through her involvement in group exhibitions at various venues in Switzerland (e.g. the Galerie Pomone in Lutry, the Galerie Rouge in Morges and the Fondation l’Estrée in Ropraz), Strasbourg and Geneva («Swiss Jewellery in the 20th Century»).

Anita Porchet has created some enamelling masterpieces, using various techniques, but mainly in miniature. She also practises paillonné enamelling, an extremely rare technique. The paillons consist of tiny motifs (also called paillettes) which are cut in various shapes from gold leaf.

Anita Porchet’s most famous works include her miniature reproduction of the ceiling of the Palais Garnier opera house in Paris for Vacheron Constantin, and the creation of a pocket watch entitled «Dawn on the Lake», to mark the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe. The secret of the enamelling on these unique timepieces lies in her hands. For the last 17 years, she has been working out of her studio in her home village of Corcelles-le-Jorat, Switzerland.

History and research
With this distinction, the jury wished to recognise the essential contribution made by Jonathan Betts to the history of time measurement, in particular in the field of British horology and marine chronometers.

Hailing from a family of watchmakers, Jonathan Betts trained at the British Horological Institute. Born in Suffolk on 29th January 1955, Jonathan Betts is a respected expert on the first marine timepieces of John Harrison.

Jonathan Betts is a Curator Emeritus at Royal Museums, Greenwich. He was appointed Senior Horology Conservator in 1979, Senior Curator of Horology in 2000 and retired from full time employment in 2015. He is a Fellow, and Vice President of the British Horological Institute, Vice Chairman of the Antiquarian Horological Society, a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries, a Fellow of the International Institute for Conservation and a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts. In 1998 he was made a Huntington Fellow of the Mariners Museum, Virginia, for his cataloguing of the marine chronometer collection there. In 2014 he was Master of the Worshipful Company of Clockmakers and is currently Deputy Master, as well as Curatorial Adviser to the Clockmakers Company Museum.

His research focuses on the history of clocks, watches and chronometers, with a particular interest in precision chronometry and its use in navigation, as well as in the determination of longitude at sea. We are indebted to him for his contribution to the museography of marine chronometers, as well as the clocks and unique pieces in the collection of the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, including the four famous marine chronometers of John Harrison, and for bringing these into the public sphere.

Other freelance roles include being Horological Advisor to the National Trust of Great Britain, Advisor to the Harris (Belmont) Charity, and to the Wallace Collection (London). For many years he served on the Clocks Conservation Committee of the Council for the Care of Churches, and is the Clocks Adviser for the Diocese of Southwark, London. He has served for several years on the Clocks Vetting Committee of the British Antique Dealers Association (BADA) Fair in Chelsea, and is the Chairman of the Clocks Vetting Committee of Masterpiece Fair (London). He has been a Member of Committee of Honour of the Swiss Chronometer Trials (the Concours international de chronométrie) since 2010.

Over the last forty years he has given regular lectures on Horology and Conservation, organizing and speaking at the NMM conference Horological Conservation and Restoration in 1988. He has been a regular lecturer at West Dean College, at museum seminars and to horological and heritage groups. He has made regular radio and tv appearances speaking on horological matters and is a frequent correspondent in the horological press. He was Harrison and Gould adviser to the drama documentary film Longitude (Granada 2000), and provided the idea and some of the script for the highly successful last episode of the TV sit-com (UK), «Only Fools and Horses», Time on their Hands, in 1996.

In 1989 he was awarded the National Maritime Museum’s Callender Award, in 2002 the Clockmakers’ Company’s Harrison Gold Medal, in 2008 the BHI Barrett Silver Medal, in 2012 an MBE in the Queen’s Jubilee honours «For Services to Horology», and the same year the Chinese BQ «Watch Culture» award from the Beijing-based watch journal BQ. In 2013 he was awarded the Plowden Medal by the Royal Warrant Holder’s Association for his contribution to Horology Conservation.

He has just completed a catalogue of the collection of marine chronometers at the NMM, due to be published by Oxford University Press in 2016.

Spirit of Enterprise
The jury decided to distinguish Giulio Papi for the major role he played in the development of complications for wristwatches by founding Renaud et Papi in 1986.

Of Italian origin, Giulio Papi was born on 22nd May 1965 and grew up in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Learning from his father, a technician and manufacturer of machine tools, Giulio Papi quickly developed a passion for technology and mechanical systems (automotive, aerospace). His decision to choose a career in the Neuchâtel region introduced him to watchmaking.

Giulio Papi began his watchmaking apprenticeship in 1980, yet with little conviction since he was the only one to turn up for class, the watchmaking crisis having discouraged many from taking up the career. Profiting from the unique availability of his teachers, he acquired as much knowledge as possible. It was thanks to one of his teachers - Jean-Claude Nicolet - that his love of mechanical systems was transformed into a passion for watches. Giulio Papi completed his apprenticeship in 1984. He approached Audemars Piguet with a skeleton watch he had produced himself. The company immediately employed him in their Specialities workshop. This was where he met his future associate, Dominique Renaud. After a year in the workshop, he asked human resources when he would be able to work on horological complications. When told this would take around twenty years, and only if a post became available, he decided to take a different path. First, he joined Antiquorum as a restorer of antique watches, before getting back in touch with Dominique Renaud, his colleague from Audemars Piguet. With both wishing to work on complications, they decided to set up their own manufacture, converting a small apartment in La Chaux-de-Fonds into a workshop. Renaud & Papi was founded in February 1986.

The young entrepreneurs approached companies to offer their services, and it was Gunther Blumlein (IWC) who gave them their opening, with a minute repeater project. The company underwent rapid growth, designing new complications using new materials and machines to produce the components. In 1992, Renaud & Papi employed 50 people specialising in the production of complication watches and making very high-end pieces for prestigious brands, before joining forces with Audemars Piguet (Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi). Giulio Papi’s company, which now employs 150 people, has since collaborated with several major brands.

Giulio Papi also collaborated on «Finitions et décorations horlogères haut de gamme» (High-end watch decorations and finishes) with Caroline Sermier. The work was published in Le Locle in 2006 by Audemars Piguet. The aim of this publication is to inform customers of the various finish levels and foster an appreciation for them.

The jury
The jury is chaired by the Curator and is composed of three members of Management of the MIH and figures from various fields relating to watchmaking. There are between twelve and fifteen members on the Committee. In principle, three members are replaced each year. This year, the jury was composed of: Régis Huguenin, curator and president of the jury; Rossella Baldi, deputy curator; Jean-Michel Piguet, deputy curator; Henry John Belmont, watch industry consultant; Hans Erb, Timesign; Estelle Fallet, chief curator and head of the history department at the Geneva Museum of Art and History; Morghan Mootoosamy, curator of the Musée d’horlogerie du Locle - Château des Monts; Michel Parmigiani, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier; Nicolas Rossé, enonomic journalist at the Radio Télévision Suisse (RTS); Nathalie Tissot, professeure de propriété intellectuelle at the Université of Neuchâtel; Sylvain Varone, responsable secteur horlogerie at the Centre interrégional de formation des Montagnes neuchâteloises; Emmanuel Vuille, CEO of Greubel Forsey and Janine Vuilleumier, Head of Information Department of the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH.

October 08, 2015