Jaquet Droz celebrates the history and artisans

Pioneers in their fields, the Jaquet Droz brothers adorned pocket watches, urns, snuffboxes, birdcages and other luxury objects with rich decorations, including spangled enamel, paintings on enamel, engravings and sculptures. These artisanal touches, the mark of exceptional savoir-faire, contributed to the success and renown of Jaquet Droz. It was much later that enamellers of the time took up the torch. Even today, these specialities can be found on a number of outstanding pieces in the collection, in accordance with tradition and in homage to the artisans of a bygone age.

Deep inside the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture there is a workshop where magic and precision, concentration and beauty go hand in hand with the objects in its care. A workshop unlike others, where only a few people, all specialists in their different fields, combine their know-how to give life to exceptional and sometimes unique pieces. In this inner sanctum, the only noise to be heard is that of a small hammer wielded by the sculptor of metal, as he works at giving body and perspective to a figurine. In silence, the painter on enamel concentrates on the motif he is reproducing with incomparable exactitude and finesse. The enameller, for her part, searches for the right coloured powders with which to embellish a future dial.

Different artisanal techniques

The artisans at Jaquet Droz are masters of different artisanal techniques, such as «Grand Feu» enamelling, painting on enamel, sculpture, and the technique of spangling.

A longstanding field of expertise within the firm, «Grand Feu» enamelling combines traditional manufacturing techniques with latest-generation technologies. Dial-makers have kept pace with the development of timepieces and their technical constraints. Today they are past masters in the production of impeccably flat, contoured dials. As they vary the fineness of powder and the precise temperature of their stoves, they are alone in knowing the formula that will give these dials wholly unique colours and textures. «Grand Feu» enamelling has been a hallmark of Jaquet Droz watches since the 18th century and today finds a new relevance in contemporary collections.

Working entirely by hand, their eyes glued to the microscope, painters on enamel demonstrate prodigious powers of concentration. Created in small series or as unique pieces, motifs are reproduced with great attention to detail. It generally takes a week or more to produce a single piece.

On bases of mother-of-pearl or onyx, mini sculptures also decorate dials. Moulded, sculpted, painted or naturally-finished motifs executed in relief provide an additional embellishment to dials. As with other techniques, this decorative art calls for single-minded absorption on the part of artisans, who cannot allow themselves the slightest ill-timed gesture.

Jaquet Droz has revived an art which disappeared long ago, namely spangling. Spangles are very thin motifs or flakes cut out of gold or silver, which are deposited delicately on an enamelled surface and then covered by the translucent flux of the enamel. Developed as an art in the 18th century, this technique is an integral part of the firm’s ancestral savoir-faire.

Restoration workshop

For two years, the Jaquet Droz art workshop has included a space dedicated to restoration. Here, old timepieces are taken apart, cleaned and renovated. The movements are also completely dismantled… sometimes it is even necessary to remake certain defective parts by hand, since they can no longer be found on the market due to their age.

The restoration workshop has for example given a new lease of life to a Jaquet Droz pocket watch called the Museum, the design for which was based entirely on an original movement dating from the 18th century which had lost its outer casing. Found in the house of a private individual, this old calibre with a crown-wheel escapement - also known as a verge escapement - is a classic of horological craftsmanship. Dating as far back as the 13th century, this type of escapement was common in the world of watchmaking until the mid 19th century. Restoration of the movement required six months’ work. Painters on enamel, engravers and jewel-setters then designed a new exterior, merging watchmaking codes of the period with aspects of the chatelaine-watch and features specific to the brand. The four-leaf clover, the secret signature of Jaquet Droz, is combined with Roman numerals (for the hours) and Arabic numerals (for the minutes) on the dial. Painted by hand and finished with a compass, the latter is circled by two hands with feminine curves. Produced by hand in polished and flame-blued steel, these hands embrace the sign of the fleur de lys. Hewn from 18-carat gold as was the practice at the time, the case is decorated with rubies and pearls according to jewellery techniques common in the 18th century, while the back cover is meticulously decorated. A blue enamelled base - whose smooth and uniform hue required many hours of work - together with carefully arranged gold spangles and an engine-turned caseback, give this pocket watch its exquisite refinement.

Dials produced with minerals

It should not be forgotten of course that Jaquet Droz has mastered the technique of dials manufactured from minerals. Rocks, crystals and stones of all kinds have inspired the brand’s creations for many years. Cut from rough material, natural stones can be fascinating once polished. With these adornments, Jaquet Droz watches become naturally unique. Examples of minerals commonly used by the brand include bronzite, a stone with multiple hues, displaying specks of earthy colours which are revealed after polishing; imperial jasper, composed of soft, delicate tones - yellows, pinks, greens, oranges and even blues - which together vie for attention. Not forgetting lapis lazuli, the stone most highly prized by ancient peoples. Early civilizations including the Egyptians, Incas, and Sumerians were fascinated by the tonic vibration of its colour. An assemblage of intense blue particles with traces of white and golden hues, it was the most valuable pigment of the Renaissance. Fragments of asteroids are also used as dial bases. Consisting of iron and nickel, they reveal needle-like motifs, with changing, interlaced structures exhibiting unusual geometric configurations. A living mineral and the fruit of slow growth, mother-of-pearl is often used as a base for dials on account of its shimmering reflections. A quintessentially black stone, onyx reflects the colour of the depths of the earth. Yet it shines, for all that. Its smooth and uniform surface reflects light instead of absorbing it. Mention must also be made of aventurine, which came into existence as a result of an error in handling. Early in the 17th century, a master glassmaker from Murano dropped some metallic dust into a vat of molten glass. After it had cooled, the glass presented a speckled, mysterious appearance. This chance occurrence gave rise to an ornamental glass widely used in watchmaking. The list of course is not exhaustive, given nature’s generosity and the inspiration of untold artisans.

February 12, 2015